Why Leave the Beach
After three days on the Budva Riviera, even the most dedicated sunbather starts to wonder what else is out there. Skadar Lake answers that question emphatically. Straddling the Montenegro-Albania border, it is the largest lake in southern Europe — 48 km long and up to 14 km wide in the wet season. The national park protects 40,000 hectares of marsh, open water, and forested islands.
Dalmatian pelicans nest here — one of only a handful of colonies in Europe. Cormorants, herons, and pygmy cormorants are common sightings. In autumn, the marshes turn gold and the grape harvest begins on the surrounding hillsides. Even in peak summer, the lake is quiet. Most riviera tourists never make it this far, which means the boat trips and wine tastings feel like private affairs.
The Drive from Budva
Head north toward Podgorica on the E65 and turn off at Virpazar — the main gateway village on the lake's northern shore. Total distance is about 65 km, and the drive takes just over an hour depending on traffic through the Sozina tunnel. The tunnel toll is a couple of euros. Beyond it, the landscape changes fast: green hills give way to flat marshland as the lake reveals itself around a bend. Virpazar sits at the junction where the Crmnica river meets the lake, and it is the starting point for boat trips and the best place to park.
Stop at Rijeka Crnojevića
Before heading to the lake, take the side road east from the main highway to Rijeka Crnojevića — a quiet riverside village that was once the old Montenegrin capital's trading post. The stone bridge over the river is one of the most photographed spots in the country. The horseshoe bend in the river below the viewpoint is genuinely spectacular. A few restaurants serve freshwater fish — smoked carp and eel are the local specialities. The village gets a handful of visitors each day compared to Budva's thousands, and the atmosphere is wonderfully peaceful.
On the Water
Boat tours depart from Virpazar throughout the day, running one to three hours depending on the route. Standard trips cost €15–25 per person and loop through lily-pad channels where the water is so still it mirrors the sky. Your boatman will cut the engine in the pelican zones and let you drift. Binoculars are worth bringing — the pelicans can be 200 metres away in the reeds. Longer tours reach the island monasteries: Kom and Beška sit on tiny islets accessible only by water, with medieval churches that have stood here for 600 years. Pack a hat and water — there is no shade on the boats.
Beyond the Boat
If you prefer dry land, the Virpazar end of the lake has several marked walking trails through the marshes and up into the surrounding hills. The hike to Besac fortress takes about 40 minutes and gives panoramic views over the lake and the mountains. Cycling is also possible on flat trails near the water's edge — bike hire is available in Virpazar for around €10/day. For an alternative inland day trip that works especially well in cooler weather, see our guide to rainy-day activities in Budva.
The Crmnica Wine Road
The hills south of the lake produce Vranac — Montenegro's signature red grape. The Crmnica wine region is compact and easy to explore by car. Several family-run cellars offer tastings by appointment, and a few have set up tasting rooms that welcome drop-ins. Plantaže, the largest producer, has a visitor centre outside Podgorica, but the smaller estates around the lake are more interesting. Expect robust reds with dark fruit and a slight earthy finish. A tasting with bread and cheese costs €5–10 at most places. Buy a bottle or two — you will not find these small-batch wines outside Montenegro.
Suggested Itinerary
- Morning: Leave Budva by 8:30. Drive to Rijeka Crnojevića for the viewpoint and a riverside coffee. Allow 1.5 hours.
- Midday: Continue to Virpazar. Board a 2-hour boat trip on the lake. Look for pelicans in the lily channels.
- Afternoon: Lunch at a Virpazar restaurant — try the smoked carp. Then visit a Crmnica winery for a tasting.
- Return: Drive back through the tunnel to Budva in time for a sunset swim. Total day: about 9 hours.